Bias Grainline Basics | Sewing Term

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Understanding the difference between straight and bias grainline can make all the difference in your next sewing project. Learn the basics in just a few simple steps.

 

Bias Grainline-

noun

 

  1. a line diagonal to the grain of a fabric; especially :  a line at a 45 degree angle to the selvage often utilized in the cutting of garments for smoother fit

Fabric cut on the bias has a stretchier and has more of a flowy functionality than fabric cut on the straight grain. Bias-cut fabrics can be useful in garments, though sewing with them is more difficult at times than sewing with straight-cut fabrics. Bias strips are also useful to make binding and hems.

Understanding the difference between straight and bias grainline can make all the difference in your next sewing project. Learn the basics in just a few simple steps.

Tips –

  •  When working on the bias for the first time, you should avoid stripes and plaids that need to be matched and super slinky fabrics, like silk charmeuse or chiffon. For best success, try beginning with a cotton lawn, plain weave linen, or a wool challis.
  • To ensure accuracy, cut all pattern pieces on a single layer of fabric rather than a fold.
  • Using a narrow zigzag stitch will allow the stitching to move and stretch in the same way that a bias cut garment would.
  • Hanging your garment overnight before hemming will allow the fabric to naturally settle. Afterward you can trim any uneven places and achieve an even hem.

Bias Grainline Stats-

  • What to Make:  Continuous bias tape, circle skirts, camisoles, lingerie, and bias cut dresses are some of the most common items cut on the bias.
  • When to Use:  When you are cutting bindings to finish off curved necklines, or arm-cyles. Also when you want a garment that is flowy or hangs delicately on the body.

Learn the difference between straight-grain and bias binding. The article also shares how, when and where to use them. The Sewing LoftDid you know that you can purchase pre packaged bias tape? It comes in a variety of colors and can really add a pop of color to any project.

Learn how to create perfect binding every time while making this custom makeup brush case during my free video class with Sew at Home. The Sewing Loft

 

 

 

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